Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city is no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially defined its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to explore these stories and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
